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He was born in 1988. He lives near Oslo, Norway. He started climbing at 11 and became a junior champion at 16. Currently, he travels the world for half a year and competes in the World Cup. He is active as a regular in the finals. He has successfully on-sighted the Ali-Hulk Sit extension (9b) to redpoint and Cosi fan Tutte (8c+) on the rocks. His favorite wear is the Norona falketind series.
When did he start participating in the World Cup?
He started participating in youth tournaments at the age of 14 and became the junior champion at the age of 16. After that, he began participating in the World Cup and is still here.
What are the training details and schedule?
After roughly two weeks of hard training, the next two weeks are easier. In simple training, he also climbs rocky routes that are not so hard. He doesn’t train every week.
Also, he is always trying new workouts, which is very important. Many climbers repeatedly repeat the same workouts at the gym, but they need constant new stimuli to keep their bodies in shape.
How is his training now?
During long competitions, he travels and trains hard, rest, train hard, rest. Also, rock climbing is important to him. Because at the gym, it’s okay to fall beyond your limits, but on rocky grounds, if you don’t give 100% of your strength, it’s really dangerous and mentally tough, so you have to be in the best possible condition.
What is his favourite climbing style?
He is good at a style that has a very strong slope and requires strength. Also, he is not very good at small holds.
Which rocks does he climb a lot?
He often climbs rocky areas in the Catalonia region of northern Spain. Jacob, Adam, Chris Sharma, and others have often stayed here. It’s a little over three hours by plane from Oslo, Norway, to Barcelona, and then two hours by car, so it’s a very easy place for him to get to.
Some questions that are asked him during an interview
What route are you aiming for now? What is the outlook?
I want to participate in a route called Neanderthal in Santa Alina, Spain, in good conditions this year. Chris Sharma made his first ascent in 2009. The grade is 9b.
Please tell us about rocky places in Norway. Flat anger Cave is famous, do you want to go too?
I go there occasionally. Frat anger is a nice place in the summer. But it’s about an 11-hour drive from Oslo, so climbing during summer competitions is difficult. So I go to Spain more often than to go to Fratanger.
However, Fratanger is a very good place with many routes, and I would like to try it for a long time in the future. I can’t do it next year because I want to concentrate on the competition, but maybe next year.
Are there rocky areas other than Furatanger Cave?
First, there are 7 other large caves in the Fratangel Cave area. Of course, there are also many boulders, and famous boulders such as Bernd Tsangar and Fred Nicol have visited. In the same area, there is a 120m sports route.
Please tell us about the Norwegian climber.
There are many strong climbers, but not many strong free climbers who compete in competitions. Some climbers occasionally participate in the World Cup held in Europe, but they are not very strong.
But there are excellent sports climbers around the age of 12-14. Norwegian free climbing is developing.
Finally, please give a message to climbers who want to become stronger.
There are many strong climbers in the world. If you want to be strong, you should watch those people closely and always try your best.
You have successfully climbed a difficult route, even on rocky terrain. Does the training method change between competition and rocky ground?
Not at all. There are many categories of climbing these days. Lead climbing competitions, bouldering competitions, or crags and training should vary depending on the purpose. In my case, after the competition period is over, I climb rocky areas in Spain and train at the gym during the competition period.
Training for competitions is to train your overall strength so that you can handle a variety of routes, and in the case of rocky terrain, you will train with a single target in mind.
Quick Know About Magnus Midtbø
Born: 18 September 1988 (age 33 years), Bergen, Norway
Nationality: Norwegian
Height: 1.74 m
Parents: Tor Midtbø
Siblings: Hannah Midtbø